Float Fishing & Float Ledgering
Float fishing is my favorite way of fishing, I find it gets better results than any other type.
I think it`s more sensitive than fishing with a quiver tip or using a buzzer where the fish hooks itself.
If a fish moves a tip a 1/4 " then most anglers would not strike or even see the movement
but if your float goes`s down 1/4" (assuming it`s set right ) you will strike.
When I say the float is set right, I think this is most important
I`ll explain more
Most floats are split into 3 parts
1. The bottom where you attach you line.
2. The body which allows you to add weight for casting.
3. The most important part the tip (this is the part that`s going to catch you more fish)
1.You can attach your float in a number of different ways.
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Put your line through the hole in the bottom of the float then lock it in position with a shot either side.
(a lot of hassle if conditions change and you want to change your float)
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Float connectors:- a ring with a small piece of plastic tube attached where your float fits.
(same as above but you can change your float easily enough)
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Float rubbers where you just slide the rubber on when setting up,
push your float through the rubber to lock it in position.
This is the way I prefer
I don`t buy packets of float rubbers I think they are a waste of time
you only get 3 or 4 rubbers that fit your floats, the rest go in the bin.
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I buy thin plastic tubing from a model shop by the meter
and it fits most of my floats
(the only drawback it`s a bit thick and I`m wondering if the fish
feel any resistance when they pull the float down)
2. There is not a lot to say about the body of a float.
Depending on the buoyancy of the material used and the size determines
the amount of split shot used.
The diameter of the body can have effect on the resistance the fish will feel
3.The tip of the float is, I believe, the most important part
The tip should be a smaller diameter than the body of the float
The bulk of the shot should sink the float down to the top of the body
Because the tip is of a smaller diameter it takes only a small amount of weight
to sink it below the surface of the water
The lower you can get the tip using very small split shot the more sensitive it becomes
If you have the tip showing 1/4" (or less if possible) the fish only has to move it that much
before your float goes under and you strike
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A little trick I use is, using your index finger very slowly wind the line in by moving the bail arm assembly
If you do this you can pull your float down in the water until it is level with the surface film
any bite then and your floats gone
My favourite float is a crystal waggler
Reduced bottom, long body, long reduced tip
5 different sizes for £1 in Poundland
I always buy 2 of each size and re-colour them black and yellow
with ladies black nail varnish or felt tip and yellow float paint.
Float Ledgering
Float ledgering is something I have been doing for a long time and find it very effective.
For those who are not familiar with it I will explain how it works
Set up
On your reel line first slide on a float rubber and float
then slide on a small bomb or drilled bullet
next slide on a ledger stop
then add your hook length
cast out making sure your float is over depth
(it does not matter if your float is laying flat on the surface)
with your rod on the rests slowly reel in till your float stands up-right
then with your hand on your rod use your first or index finger to turn the
bale arm assembly very slowly and this will pull your float down in the water.
Try to bring it down as low as possible.
On a calm day you can bring the tip down to the surface film
the smallest bite and your float will go under.
You can adjust the hight of your float by very slowly moving your rod
for-wards or back-wards on your rod rests.
Another advantage is that you can fish in different areas knowing
that if you can see your float your bait is on the bottom.
